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TRAVEL TRENDS
March 1997
GEOGRAPHICAL
November 1998
TRAVEL LEISURE
April - '94
Getaways - Horse Safaris, Aravallis, Rajasthan

What better way to experience the vast spaces of Rajasthan than on horseback? All you need to be is a keen rider possessing a penchant for the outdoors. And, if that's your beat, take this exotic holiday - a horse safari in the Aravalli foothills.

Your safari base is Kotdi, about 2 1/2 hours drive from Udaipur. A 200-year-old castle turned into a heritage hotel, it offers comfortable and modern accommodation. This is where the stables are.

Your safari takes you through the historic Godwad region. Several itineraries are possible according to preferences and riding abilities. At night you stop in forts, castles, rawlas and havelis which dot the region. Tales are woven around bonfires, royals host you and tribal dancers create enchanting spells. In the day you ride through Kumbalgarh wildlife sanctuary. Kumbalgarh fort towers in the distance and wild animals dart across. We also ride by lakes, through villages and scrubland, stop by temples, cenotaphs….. covering some 30 km every day.

The horses belong to Khem, an aristocrat who twice a year takes time out from playing polo and golf to lead riders through Rajasthan . Our horses have an eclectic collection of names including Rhanigandha and Roger. There is even one called Princess Diana. Mine, a tall black Marwari with sleepy eyes, is Mohur, or "gold coin"……..….."We gallop through the sunshine, making tracks across the dusty plains and revelling in the space and freedom. We follow sunken lanes and breathe in the scent of history, provided at intervals with cold drinks and smiles of encouragement from Arun, our expedition organiser. Dusty, a research associate from Massachusetts in her mid-60's is overwhelmed with the experience. "I have ridden all over the world," she says, "in Africa, Mongolia, Europe, America. But India is the culmination of my dreams and I love the riding." Ricardo, a mechanical engineer from Brazil, nods in agreement. "It is such a privilege to be here, to glimpse this way of life from horseback." He doesn't feel as intrusive, he says, as he would do in a car. "It is simply a wonderful way to see the people and the places."………

Hoofing it in Rajasthan - with Tama Janowitz:

…" Everyone in the village turned out for our arrival; even the cows, dogs, and goats appeared greatly interested. The charming little palace-(Rohetgarh) - has an ornately painted entrance that opens to a wide verandah and an expanse of lawn. Inside we are greeted by Khem and Somi Singh - cousins who are Rajputs, members of Rajasthan's centuries-old warrior clan. Khem in his late thirties, leads the horse trips.

Day 6: Stars at the Palace:
…Sardar Samand, an Art Deco Palace- 40 miles southeast of the city of Jodhpur. Since its owner , the Maharaja of Jodhpur, is in residence for only one week each winter, the Palace is rented out the rest of the year. The group rode a half day, and when they arrived, hot and dusty, everyone dove into a beautiful celadon swimming pool perched on an open air terrace seemingly miles above the ground. As always, the horses were whisked away by the grooms to be unsaddled, brushed and fed. As afternoon faded into evening, the stars became indescribably bright. This mountain-top palace seems to be the only habitation in the area - or the only one with electricity……

Day 10: …….
This jungle is part of the Kumbhalgarh Sanctuary, and when we stopped for lunch on the side of a ravine, a 12 foot crocodile was basking in the pool below. The climb to the fortress, an enormous 15th century citadel with more than 300 temples within it's walls, took all day. From the ramparts, where we are now, we can see the string of mountains beyond and catch a glimpse of the flat desert plain that took us the whole week to traverse. On this mountain I feel a momentary sense of accomplishment, of possibility. Though we have an evening left at The Aodhi Lodge in Kumbhalgarh, and will say good-bye to our horses in the morning, before driving down to Udaipur, the trip for me is over: it seems there is nowhere higher to go.

VACATIONS & TRAVEL
Spring 2000
DESTINATION INDIA
Nov/Dec 1999

Riding with Maharaja's - Dagmar F. von Harryegg:

A fantastic sight awaits us next morning. The horses are already saddled with an uniformed groom en garde at their side, recreating the fantasy of royal caravans and the images of a journey into the past. Khem Singh, belonging to the clan of Rajputs, guides our group, followed by a support group fit for a Hollywood movie. More than once we pass women clad in bright and vibrant coloured saris walking extraordinary long distances, full brass water pots precariously balancing on their heads.

………Before trotting off again, we pay the royal cenotaphs a visit contemplating what life must have been for the brave women who committed sati throwing themselves onto the funeral pyre of their husbands. No wonder, passing through the picturesque Godwar region, dotted with hilltop fortresses, galloping on sandy desert tracks the ghosts of warrior princes are our invisible companions. ……

……..Crossing the dense forest of the Kumbalgarh sanctuary with hordes of monkeys swinging from branch to branch, the mighty 15th century Kumbalgarh fort appears in the distance. …..

…... While our horses are again whisked away by their grooms, we relax at the swimming pool in the serene gardens of the Aodhi Hotel, reflecting upon the experiences of two extraordinary equestrian adventures.

Exclusive Vacations on Horseback:



(Ghanerao Tours is outfitting exclusive vacations on horseback. The safaris operating around Udaipur and Jodhpur in Rajasthan propose a unique way of touring a state rich in culture, heritage and art forms.)

The proposed itinerary covers varied parts of the state, exposing the traveller to a multitude of fascinating sights. The area covered, Godvad, has been a historically strategic region. This fertile land, at the foothills of the Aravallis, comprises of many villages.

At one end of Godvad are the green Aravalli hills dominated by one of the greatest bastions of Mewar - Fort Kumbalgarh. At the foothills there is a wildlife sanctuary, the lower boundary of which is dotted with lakes, temples, monuments which include the renowned Jain marble temples of Ranakpur. Further north-west are farms and villages, after which the land becomes semi-desert in character. The other end of this region is covered with innumerable fighting forts.


 

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